Berne to Zurich, which is seated at the northern part of the lake of the same name. Zurich is gradually increasing her manufactures. The River Limmat, which flows from the lake to join the Aar, sweeps through the town with considerable velocity, and affords a cheap motive power. Mills are erected upon piles in the stream, and derive their motion from its flow. It has a busy, thriving look, and is less dependent upon passenger traffic than Lucerne. The sail up Lake Zurich is lovely, the hills teem with human life, and appear redolent with human comfort. I drove from Horgen on the shore of Lake Zurich to Zug on that of Lake Zug; it was all the way like a gentleman's park; there was not a fence at either side of the road; the land was well tilled, not a scrap was wasted. The residences, which were thickly studded over it, were well built and most comfortable, overy one had its own flowergarden quite unenclosed. The fruit trees, laden with their luxuriant produce, were apparently as secure from molestation in the open fields, as if they were in a walled-in garden watched by a ferocious dog. There is a sense of security in property which is not possessed in the United Kingdom. I have not seen in Switzerland a walled-in farmyard or any fence similar to those which are considered indispensable to the protection of property in England, Scotland, or Ireland. I had met upon the steamer on Lake Zurich two young gentlemen from South Africa; they were sons of Dutch Boers, and had come to Europe for their education, where one of them had been ordained for the Church. We clubbed together and took a carriage at Horgen, from whence we posted to Zug, and thence along the shores of that lake to Arth and on to Goldau, where we left our carriage and prepared to ascend the Rigi, which reared its almost precipitous sides before us and seems to be quite unapproachable. Some years ago, 1806, a land slip took place at Goldau, which overwhelmed several villages and destroyed a number of people. The verdure has now overspread the scene of desolation, and farmhouses are built thereon. As we wished to gain the summit before sunset and had more luggage than a guide could well carry, we obtained horses, and with our guide started on the upward route. The ascent of the Rigi, which occupies about three hours, is slowly accomplished, and I arrived at the top only a few moments before the sinking god of day veiled his face and disappeared in obscurity. During the slow and toilsome ascent, we could see little, but that which we had passed, or which lay behind us. The mountain raised its front before us, and intercepted any vision except that of its own form. But on reaching the top what a glorious vision burst upon the astonished sight! The sun was near the horizon, but lit up the level plateau of Switzerland, consisting of a vast extent of land interspersed with lakes. It is said that one can see 80 miles in a direct line from the highest point, Rigi Kulm, which is 1,000 feet higher than the top of Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Great Britain. There lay the lakes over which steamers carrying living cargoes are plying their frequent way. We can see Lakes Zurich, Zug, and Lucerne almost immediately below, while Thun and Brienz were seen at a greater distance. Wending their way from the lake to the ocean, were the rivers, seen like silver threads. The cities of Lucerne and Zurich, both large places, appeared like specks, while, arrayed in all the glory of Sol's parting rays, lay the magnificent mountains, the eternal snows which cap their summits lit up with a soft and most lovely radiance. The traveller who ascends the Rigi from Goldau has one advantage over one who takes the road from Weggis; he reaches the top from the back of the mountain, and the scenery bursts at once upon his astonished gaze. He who ascends from Weggis has constant views of the inland scenery, and becomes accustomed to it. As I stood gazing upon the setting sun, and looking over the vast territory spread out below me, to an extent of over eighty miles, I could not help fancying how insignificant London, the greatest city of the universe, with all its grandeur, would look in the midst of the plain. The Rigi is about 6,000 feet above the level of the sea, but around and about us were mountains covered with perpetual snow, whose summits were from 7,000, to 9,000 feet higher than where we stood. As I gazed upon the mountains and the plains, and fancied the greatest of man's works placed in the midst of it, I could not help feeling how great would be the contrast between the works of man and the works of God! One would appear so small, so petty, so insignificant; the other so grand, so lofty, so stupendous. We see beauty in the works of the Deity, in the lovely scenery, the calm lake, the lofty mountains; God sees beauty in the works of man, in his love, his faith, his loyalty, his care for his fellows. What is wealth compared with goodness ? or riches with kindness of heart? Such visions as the view from these glorious mountains, elevate man's nature, it lifts him from earth to heaven. Byron exclaims Above me are the Alps, The palaces of Nature, whose vast walls How earth may pierce to heaven, yet leave vain man below. From scenes so fair to look upon, we poor fasting mortals were called to that which we so much needed, our supper. A large party, ninety in number, sat down to an excellent and well served repast, after which, the moon being at the full, we wandered forth to look upon nature under Luna's softest beams, and then sought repose. We were called early to witness the advent of another day. The valley which lay beneath us was a sea of fleecy clouds. The higher mountain peaks around us, capped with snow, caught one by one the beams of morning, as the earth slowly turned itself towards the sun. At length the day-god burst upon our sight in full effulgence, and soon dissipated the clouds and mist. After breakfast we descended to Weggis. The descent from the Rigi Kulm (the highest point) to Weggis, occupies about two and a half hours' quick walking. The views from different points are most lovely. In some spots the path winds along the base of precipitous rocks, in others it passes under curious natural bridges. Along the route are to be found seats and covered resting places, where fruit and beverage may be had. Weggis is very prettily seated on the shore of lake Lucerne; behind it, and above the chapel, is the meadow of Rütli, justly famous for the assembly on November 7, 1307, of the men of the three forest cantons, who vowed to save their country and liberty without violence or injustice. On the very edge of the lake is a very pretty refreshment room, with trellis walls, round and through which the vine climbs its way. It is most refreshing after a walk of some hours to sit here and sip cherry water, an institution peculiar to this locality. The steamers call at the wharf or quay on the way from Lucerne up the lake. Lake Lucerne, or 'the lake of the four cantons,' forms an irregular cross. On the western point lies the city of Lucerne; on the south Alpnacht; on the north Küsnacht, and on the east Fluelen. Steamers ply from Lucerne to Alpnacht, which lies on the way to the Brunig Pass, Meyringen, lakes Brienz and Interlacken. Others ply from Lucerne by Weggis to Fluelen, and thence over the Devil's Bridge to the St. Gothard Pass. I embarked at Weggis for Fluelen. In steaming up the lake we passed Gersan and Brunnen in Canton Schwytz, which gives its name to the entire confederation, by Tell's chapel and other scenes celebrated in history; indeed the whole shore of lake Lucerne is classic ground, from whence sprang those seeds of liberty which have gone on fructifying to the benefit of mankind. The shores of this lake convey the idea of some tremendous geological convulsion. The surface of the lake is nearly 1,500 feet above the level of the sea, and it is 850 feet deep. The impression produced on my mind was, that the violent upheaving of the surface formed a cavity which was filled with water; in some spots the strata is nearly |