224

INDICATIONS OF FORMER LUXURIANCE.

changes, and the probable causes of the failure of the plenteous years, they were not likely to be convinced such could depend on any thing done by man, even though they were credulous enough to believe that their rain-makers could charm or frighten the clouds into showers, or that our faces or prayers could prevent their descending.

When reference has been made to certain trees, especially the Milkwood, (sideroxylum inerme,) and a few shrubs which they prohibit being touched with a knife or an axe when the rain is expected, I have embraced the opportunity of trying to convince the more intelligent, that they themselves were the active agents of bringing about an entire change of atmosphere. The Bechuanas, especially the Batlapis and the neighbouring tribes, are a nation of levellers--not reducing hills to comparative plains, for the sake of building their towns, but cutting down every species of timber, without regard to scenery or economy. Houses are chiefly composed of small timber, and their fences of branches and shrubs. Thus when they fix on a site for a town, their first consideration is to be as near a thicket as possible. The whole is presently levelled, leaving only a few trees, one in each great man's fold, to afford shelter from the heat, and under which the men work and recline.

The ground to be occupied for cultivation is the next object of attention; the large trees being too hard for their iron axes, they burn them down by keeping up a fire at the root. These supply them with branches for fences, while the sparrows, so destructive to their grain, are thus deprived of an asylum. These fences, as well as those in the towns, require constant repairs, and indeed the former must be renewed every year, and by this means the country for many miles around becomes entirely cleared of timber; while in the more sequestered spots, where they have their out-posts, the same work of destruction goes on. Thus, of whole forests where the giraffe and elephant were wont to seek their daily food, nothing remains.

When the natives remove from that district, which may be after only a few years, the minor species of the acacia soon grows, but the acacia giraffe requires an age to become a tree, and many ages must pass before they attain the dimensions of their predecessors. The wood, when old, is a dark red, rough grained, and exceedingly hard and heavy: after being dried for years, when thrown into the water it sinks like lead. In the course of my journeys I have met with trunks of enormous size, which, if the time were calcu

DIMINUTION OF FOUNTAINS.

225

lated necessary for their growth, as well as their decay, one might be led to conclude that they sprung up immediately after the flood, if not before it. The natives have also the yearly custom of burning the dry grass, which on some occasions destroys shrubs and trees even to the very summit of the mountains. To this system of extermination may be attributed the long succession of dry seasons. "The felling of forests has been attended in many countries by a diminution of rain, as in Barbadoes and Jamaica.* For in tropical countries, where the quantity of aqueous vapour in the atmosphere is great, but where, on the other hand, the direct rays of the sun are most powerful, any impediment to the free circulation of air, or any screen which shades the earth from the solar rays, becomes a source of humidity; and whenever dampness or cold have begun to be generated by such causes, the condensation of vapour continues. The leaves, moreover, of all plants are alembics, and some of those in the torrid zone have the remarkable property of distilling water, thus contributing to prevent the earth from being parched up." This was a philosophy which the more acute thinkers among the people could partially comprehend, though they could not believe. I do not, however, despair of eventually seeing the whole of the population, some of whom are now commencing the building of stone fences and brick houses, so fully satisfied on this point that they will find it for their own interest, as well as contributing to the beauty of the country to encourage the growth of timber, particularly as it is only such as is indigenous which can grow to any extent. To the same cause may be traced the diminution of fountains, and the entire failure of some which formerly afforded a copious supply, such as Griqua Town, Campbell, and a great number of others which might be mentioned; and which, according to the estab lished theory of springs, must be supplied by melted snow, rain, dew, and vapours condensed. It has been remarked, that since the accidental destruction of whole plains of the Olea similis (wild olive) by fire, near Griqua Town, as well as the diminishing of large shrubs on the neighbouring heights, a gradual decrease of rain has succeeded in that region, and thus the subterranean caverns found to serve as reservoirs in the bowels of the earth cease to be supplied, especially when there are no lofty mountains to pierce the clouds, or arrest and condense vapours which float in the atmosphere.

Phil. Trans. vol. ii. p. 264.

+ Lyell's Prin, Geo,

226

INSTINCT OF ANIMALS.

The climate in the countries from the borders of the colony to 25° north latitude, and to 24° east longitude, is very similar. The winds which prevail, especially in the higher regions, are from the west and north-east. Cold, withering winds frequently blow from the south during the winter months, in which rain rarely falls, and never with a south wind. In spring, (the end of August,) the north gales commence, and blow daily, with great violence, from about 10 A. M., to nearly sunset, when a still, serene night succeeds. During the prevalence of these winds, which continue till November, when the air becomes modified by thunderstorms, the atmosphere appears as if dense with smoke, reaching as high as the clouds; this appearance is occasioned by the light particles of dust brought from the sandy plains of the Kalagare desert, which is so exquisitely fine, that it penetrates seams and cracks which are almost impervious to water. These winds may, with great propriety, be styled sandy monsoons. They are so dry, as to affect the skin very disagreeably; and the process of exsiccation goes on rapidly, producing in the human frame extreme languor, and febrile symptoms, especially with those of a delicate constitution, who, though the morning may be perfectly serene, have in themselves indications of approaching wind for hours before it rises. Towards the latter end of the windy season, the thirsty cattle may frequently be seen turning their heads northward to snuff the aqueous blast, as their instinctive powers catch the scent of the green herbage which is brought from the tropical regions. When this is the case, there is reason to hope that clouds will soon make their appearance from the opposite quarter. The wind is rarely from the east; and when it is, we expect rain, which will sometimes continue for days, and is what we denominate land-rains, being without thunder. The instinct of cattle under these circumstances is very remarkable, and sometimes leads to serious consequences. I have known these animals, after having travelled nearly 200 miles from their country, when passing through one more sterile and dry, eagerly snuff the odoriferous gale blowing from the luxuriant plains they had left, and start off in a straight line to the place from whence they had come.

Many years previous to my sojourn in Namaqua-land, Africaner lost the greater part of his cattle from this cause. One evening a strong wind commenced blowing from the north; it smelt of green grass, as the natives expressed it. The cattle, not being in folds, started off after dark. The

ATMOSPHERIC PHENOMENA.

227

circumstance being unprecedented, it was supposed they had merely wandered out to the common where they were accustomed to graze; but it was found, after much search, that some thousands of cattle had directed their course to the north. A few were recovered, but the majority escaped to the Damara country, after having been pursued hundreds of miles. This instinct directs the migrations of the antelope and the wild ass used to the wilderness, that snuffeth up the wind at her pleasure. Jer. ii. 24. These winds, I have learned from inquiry, come from within the tropics, where rain has fallen, and the cool air thereby produced, rushes southward over the plains, filling up the space caused by the rarefaction of the air, owing to the approach of the sun to the tropic of Capricorn. The more boisterous these winds are, the more reason we have to expect rain. They cannot extend to any great height, as the thunder-storms which follow, and which often commence with a small cloud in the opposite direction, increasing into mountains of snow, with a tinge of yellow, pursue an opposite course. These are preceded by a dead stillness, which continues till the tornado bursts upon us with awful violence, and the clouds have discharged their watery treasures. In such a case

there are almost always two strata of clouds, frequently moving in opposite directions. The higher mountain-like masses, with their edges exactly defined, going one way, while the feelers, or loose misty vapour beneath, convulsed, and rolling in fearful velocity, are going another; while the peals of thunder are such as to make the very earth tremble. The lightning is of three descriptions, one kind passing from cloud to cloud; this is seldom accompanied with any rain. Another kind is the forked, which may be seen passing through a cloud, and striking the earth; this is considered the most dangerous. The most common, not always accompanied by rain, is what we are in the habit of calling stream or chain-lightning. This appears to rise from the earth, in figures of various shapes, crooked, zigzag, and oblique; and sometimes like a water-spout at sea; it continues several seconds, while the observer can distinctly see it dissolve in pieces like a broken chain. The perpetual roar of awful thunder on these occasions may be conceived, when twenty or more of these flashes may be counted in one minute. The lightning may also be seen passing upwards through the dense mass of vapour, and branching out like the limbs of a naked tree in the blue sky above. In such storms the rain frequently falls in torrents, and runs off very

228

DESCRIPTIONS OF THUNDER STORMS.

rapidly, not moistening the earth, except in sandy plains, more than six inches deep.

These storms are frequently very destructive, though not attended with that loss of life common in more populous countries. People are killed, especially such as take refuge under trees; houses are struck, when, in general, some, if not all, the inmates perish. Game are frequently killed by it, and I have known about fifty head of cattle levelled on the spot. Though persons do become so far accustomed to these fearful diplays of Almighty power as even to long for them, because they bring rain, yet they frequently produce great terror, especially among the lower orders of the animal creation. The antelopes flee in consternation; and I have had opportunities of observing the Balala (poor Bechuanas) start off early on the morning following such a storm, in quest of the young which have been cast through terror: thus illustrating the words of the psalmist, as rendered in our English translation, "The voice of the Lord causeth the hinds to calve," or somewhat clearer, as in the

Dutch, "cast their young."

While on the subject of thunder, it may be proper to observe, that we have in those latitudes what the natives call serumairi, (serumaeeree,) which is thunder without clouds. I have frequently heard it during my long abode in the country, and once in a position where no clouds could be seen for fifty or sixty miles round, even on the most distant horizon, for many weeks; indeed, it may be said to be heard only when there are no clouds whatever to be seen. When it does occur, which is not often, it is after the sun has passed the meridian, and when the day is hottest, with little or no wind. The explosion appears to be in the clear blue sky; and, though over our heads, the intonations are soft, and nothing like lightning is to be seen.

Among the varieties of meteorological phenomena, it might be here noticed, that explosions of substances occasionally take place, which generally strike awe into the heathen, who are afraid of signs in the heavens. These occur after dry and sultry days. I never met, however, with a Mochuana who had seen or heard of the fall of aerolites. The natives never appeared to have formed any idea of the causes which produce the phenomena of the heavens, such as eclipses. The vague, though universal, notion prevails, when the moon is eclipsed, that a great chief has died, They are directed by the position of certain stars in the hea.

* Psalm xxix. 9