arrived on horseback, with two men having a quantity of mutton tied to their saddles. I cannot conceive of an epicure gazing on a table groaning under the weight of viands, with half the delight that I did on the mutton, which, though killed only the preceding evening, required no keeping to make it tender. Oxen had been sent for, which were to arrive in two days. This time was spent in mutually refreshing intercourse; but Mr. B., although inured to Namaqua heat, remarked, that what we experienced was enough to set the grass on fire.

Fresh oxen, accustomed to deep sand, soon brought us to Pella. Here I remained a few days, and was greatly invigorated in body and mind by the truly Christian kindness of Mr. and Mrs. Bartlett, as well as by the friendly attentions of the heathen converts. When about to depart, Magerman, the native teacher of Warm Bath, arrived with oxen, for the purpose of conveying me thither. Hence, a contention, if such it may be called, ensued, my destination being Africaner's kraal, where they were awaiting my arrival, having been apprised of my coming by Mr. Ebner, who had returned there about six weeks previous. At last Magerman consented to take me to the other side of the river; and the good man, hoping to gain his point, conducted me to a ford, opposite which a village of his people lay, who he expected would take me by force. The wagon and its contents were swam over piecemeal, on a fragile raft of dry willow logs, about six feet long, and from four to six inches in diameter, fastened together with the inner bark of the mimosas, which stud the banks of the river, which is at this place 500 yards wide, rocky, with a rapid current. The rafts are carried a great distance down by the stream, taken to pieces every time of crossing, each man swimming back with a log.

When, after some days' labour, all was conveyed to the opposite shore, the last raft was prepared for me, on which I was requested to place myself, and hold fast. I confess, though a swimmer, I did not like the voyage, independently of not wishing to give them the trouble of another laborious crossing. I withdrew along the woody bank, and plunged into the river, leaving my clothes to be conveyed over. As soon as they saw me approaching the middle of the current, terrified lest evil should befall me, some of the most expert swimmers plunged in, and laboured hard to overtake me, but in vain; and when I reached the northern band, an in

78

ARRIVE AT AFRICANER'S KRAAL.

dividual came up to me, almost out of breath, and asked, "Were you born in the great sea water?"

The wagon and contents being removed beyond the reach of a flood, which sometimes comes down with little warning, an affecting scene presented itself, which perfectly overcame my feelings. Magerman and his people beset my wagon, reasoning, pleading, and praying that I might go to Warm Bath. The following day the subject was renewed with such earnestness, that it was afternoon before I tasted a mouthful of food. At last the women came like a regiment, and declared that if I left them, I must take the wagon over their bodies, for they would lie down before the wheels. It was in vain I pleaded my destination, and the necessity of proceeding first to Africaner, to fulfil the promise of the directors. At last a party of Africaner's people, with three of his brothers, were seen approaching in the distance. This ended the painful conflict; for, awed by their presence, they withdrew, with many tears.

CHAPTER VIII.

On the 26th of January, 1818, I arrived, with emotions of the deepest gratitude to God, at Africaner's kraal, (afterwards called, by Mr. Ebner, Vreede Berg, and then Jerusalem,) being kindly received by Mr. E. Africaner's brother, who had charge of my wagon, took it to a large tree in the village, at some hundred yards' distance from the temporary hut of Mr. Ebner. This I did not like, but knew that sometimes it was wiser to be silent than to speak. Appearances were not so inviting as I had hoped to find them; and Christian Africaner, the chief, was some time before he came to welcome me. I was not aware of any unpleasant feeling existing between the missionary and the people, although I was startled, before I left the colony, to hear Mr. Ebner describe them as a wicked, suspicious, and dangerous people, baptized as well as unbaptized.

After remaining an hour or more in this situation, Christian Africaner made his appearance; and after the usual

COMFORTS OF A NATIVE HOUSE.

79

salutation, inquired if I was the missionary appointed by the Directors in London; to which I replied in the affirmative. This seemed to afford him much pleasure; and he added, that as I was young, he hoped that I should live long with him and his people. He then ordered a number of women to come; I was rather puzzled to know what he intended by sending for women, till they arrived, bearing bundles of native mats and long sticks, like fishing-rods. Africaner pointing to a spot of ground, said, "There, you must build a house for the missionary." A circle was instantly formed, and the women evidently delighted with the job, fixed the poles, tied them down in the hemispheric form, and covered them with the mats, all ready for habitation, in the course of little more than half-an-hour. Since that time I have seen houses built of all descriptions, and assisted in the construction of a good many myself; but I confess I never witnessed such expedition. Hottentot houses, (for such they may be called, being confined to the different tribes of that nation,) are at best not very comfortable. I lived nearly six months in this native hut, which very frequently required tightening and fastening after a storm. When the sun shone, it was unbearably hot; when the rain fell, I came in for a share of it; when the wind blew, I had frequently to decamp to escape the dust; and in addition to these little inconveniences, any hungry cur of a dog that wished a night's lodging, would force itself through the frail wall, and not unfrequently deprive me of my anticipated meal for the coming day; and I have more than once found a serpent coiled up in a corner. Nor were these all the contingencies of such a dwelling, for as the cattle belonging to the village had no fold, but strolled about, I have been compelled to start up from a sound sleep, and try to defend myself and my dwelling from being crushed to pieces by the rage of two bulls which had met to fight a nocturnal duel.

But to return to my new habitation, in which, after my household matters were arranged, I began to ruminate on the past—the home and friends I had left, perhaps for ever; the mighty ocean which rolled between the desert country through which I had passed, to reach one still more dreary. In taking a review of the past, which seemed to increase in brightness, as I traced all the way in which I had been brought, during the stillness of my first night's repose, I often involuntarily said and sung,

"Here I raise my Ebenezer,

Hither by thy help I'm come."

80

PERPLEXING CIRCUMSTANCES.

The inimitable hymn from which these lines are taken, was often sung by Mr. and Mrs. Kitchingman and myself, while passing through the lonely desert. But my mind was frequently occupied with other themes. I was young, had entered into a new and responsible situation, and one surrounded with difficulties of no ordinary character. Already I began to discover some indications of an approaching storm, which might try my faith. The future looked dark and portentous in reference to the mission. My inexperienced hand trembled to touch a single chord, lest it should vibrate in sounds still more discordant than those which fell on my ear the preceding day; but the sure word of promise was my stay, and I was enabled to adopt the language of one of old, "In the multitude of my thoughts within me, thy comforts delight my soul." What I had contemplated was but too soon realized. The general aspect of affairs was to me any thing but cheering. Christian Africaner seemed cool and reserved; and on Titus Africaner, his brother, coming to the station, a scene ensued which made me tremble for the ark of God. Titus, whom I had not previously seen, was an inveterate enemy of missionaries; he, with others, came and stood before the native house of Mr. Ebner, loading him with the most abusive epithets, and in the most opprobrious language, ordered him to leave, threatening to lay violent hands on him. The whole of the people on the station were gazing on this scene, to me distressing in the extreme. Dreading some fearful consequences, I begged an interview with the chief, Christian Africaner, which I soon obtained, and entreated him, as a Christian brother, to use his influence to put a stop to proceedings so disorderly and disgraceful on the part of his relative. The chief, however, showed the greatest aversion to take any part in the business, and I could only obtain his promise to prevent Titus from assaulting the person of Mr. Ebner. I then went to Mr. E., to induce him to desist from disputing with a man in a rage, who threatened him with death. I addressed Titus, begging him to refer the case to the chief, to which, in a calm tone of voice, he replied, "I hope you will not interfere." Though I could not understand the merits of the case, I sat down at the door of Mr. Ebner's hut, determined that if any blows were given, I would at least come in for a share, for the sake of the wife and children. Towards evening a calm ensued, but it was a gloomy one, especially when Mr. E. came to me and begged of me to take upon myself the entire charge of the station, as he had resolved never

PROSPECTS BRIGHTEN.

81

more to address them, but to leave the country entirely. Perceiving him greatly excited against the whole people, I earnestly entreated him to wait and deliberate on the subject calmly. A day or two passed, and though to Mr. E.'s great relief I obtained a kind of promise from Titus, that he would not molest him again; his determination to depart was unalterable. I shall never forget what were my feelings when, at Mr. E.'s request, I had to go among the people, and beg of some who were able to assist him to remove with his wagon and goods to Warm Bath, whither he had received an invitation from the chief Bondlezwarts to labour.* Mr. E. feared after leaving the station, Titus and his people might fall upon him, as it was rumoured that, but for my presence he would have done. Here I was, left alone with a people suspicious in the extreme; jealous of their rights, which they had obtained at the point of the sword; and the best of whom Mr. E. described as a sharp thorn. I had no friend and brother with whom I could participate in the communion of saints, none to whom I could look for counsel or advice. A barren and miserable country; a small salary, about 251. per annum. No grain, and consequently no bread, and no prospect of getting any, from the want of water to cultivate the ground; and destitute of the means of sending to the colony. These circumstances led to great searchings of heart, to see if I had hitherto aimed at doing and suffering the will of Him in whose service I embarked. Satisfied that I had not run unsent, and having in the intricate, and sometimes obscure course I had come, heard the still small voice saying, "This is the way, walk ye in it," I was wont to pour out my soul among the granite rocks surrounding this station, now in sorrow, and then in joy; and more than once I took my violin, once belonging to Christian Albrecht, and reclining upon one of the huge masses, have, in the stillness of the evening, played and sung the well known hymn, a favourite of my mother's,

"Awake, my soul, in joyful lays,

To sing the great Redeemer's praise," &c.

Soon after my stated services commenced-which were, according to the custom of our missionaries at that period,

* Mr. Ebner remained at Warm Bath but a short time; for the chief of that place, not obtaining what he anticipated, which was something other than the gospel, Mr. E. was obliged to decamp, return to the colony, and finally went to Germany, his native country.