CHAPTER XXX.

In the latter end of the year 1829, two traders journeyed to the interior for the purpose of shooting elephants, and to barter. Hearing at the Bahurutsi that a tribe possessing much cattle lived at some distance eastward, they proceeded thither, and were received in a friendly manner by Moselekatse, the king of that division of Zoolus called Abaka Zoolus, or more generally Matabele. He, however, only allowed them to approach one of his cattle outposts on horseback. Prior to this visit this tribe had had some intercourse with the Bahurutsi, by whom they obtained partial information respecting white people, and particularly those on the Kuruman station, with whom they were best acquainted. During the time of his residence on the Lekua, and other sources of the Orange River, his people had been attacked by the Bergenaars, but as these were only Griquas and Corannas, he was in comparative ignorance of the character and dispositions of the whites. When these traders returned, Moselekatse sent with them two of his lintuna, or chief men, for the purpose of obtaining a more particular knowledge of his white neighbours; charging them particularly to make themselves acquainted with the manners and instructions of the Kuruman teachers. On their arrival they were astonished beyond measure with every thing they saw, and as they, according to the custom of their nation, were in a state of nudity, their appearance very much shocked the comparatively delicate feelings of the Bechuanas, barbarians as they were. These visitors, however, most cheerfully acquiesced in our suggestions, for the sake of decency and propriety. They were shown every mark of attention, which was received with a politeness to which we had been entirely unaccustomed among the Bechuanas, which convinced us that true politeness was not confined to birth or civilization, and pointed out to us that our visitors were the nobles of the nation tc which they belonged. Every thing calculated to interest was exhibited to them. Our houses, the walls of our folds and gardens, the water ditch conveying a large stream out

He calls himself Moselekatse, sounding the e as in emit, but is also called Umselekas, or Umsiligas, by the Kafir and Zoolu tribes,

vinced them, that he who professed so high a regard for their guardian would do them no harm. Leaving Lithako, we travelled in our empty wagons with more than usual speed, over the Barolong plains, in many parts of which the traveller, like the mariner on the ocean, sees the expanse around him bounded only by the horizon. Clumps of mimosas occasionally meet the eye, while the grass, like fields of tall wheat, waved in the breeze; amidst which various kinds of game were found, and the king of the forest roved at large.

Some of the solitary inhabitants, who subsisted entirely on roots and the chase, would intercept our course, and beg a little tobacco, and sometimes pass the night where we encamped. These were, indeed, the companions of the lion, and seemed perfectly versed in all his tactics. As we were retiring to rest one night, a lion passed near us, occasionally giving a roar, which softly died away on the extended plain, as it was responded to by another at a distance. Directing the attention of these Balala to this sound, and asking if they thought there was danger, they turned their ears as to a voice with which they were familiar, and, after listening for a moment or two, replied, "There is no danger; he has eaten, and is going to sleep." They were right, and we slept also. Asking them in the morning how they knew the lions were going to sleep, they replied, "We live with them; they are our companions."

At Sitlagole River, about 160 miles from the Kuruman, we halted in the afternoon, and allowed our oxen to graze on a rising bank opposite our wagons, and somewhat farther than a gun-shot from them. Having but just halted, and not having loosened a gun, we were taken by surprise by two lions rushing out from a neighbouring thicket. The oldest one, of enormous size, approached within ten yards of the oxen, and bounding on one of my best, killed him in a moment, by sending his great teeth through the vertebræ of the neck. The yonnger lion couched at a distance, while the elder licked his prey, turning his head occasionally towards the other oxen, which had caught his scent and scampered off; then, with his fore-feet upon the carcase, he looked and roared at us, who were all in a scuffle to loosen our guns, and attack his majesty. Two of our number, more eager to frighten than to kill, discharged their muskets; and, probably, a ball whistling past his ear, induced him to retire to the thicket whence he had come, leaving us in quiet possession of the meat. At Meritsane, the bed of another dry river, we had a serenade of desert music, cornposed of

ARRIVE AT THE BAHURUTSI.

341 the treble, counter, and bass voices of jackals, hyenas, and Jions.

We were kindly treated by the Barolongs; and on the tenth day we arrived at Mosega, the abode of Mokhatla, regent over the fragments, though still a large body, of the Bahurutsi. These had congregated in a glen, and subsisted on game, roots, berries, and the produce of their corn-fields; having been deprived of their flocks by the Mantatees. They were evidently living in fear, lest Moselekatse should one day make them captives. From these people I received a hearty welcome, though I was known to few of them except by name.

Having fulfilled my engagement, in conveying my charge in safety to the Bahurutsi, I, in a solemn and formal manner delivered them over to the care of Mokhatla, requesting him either to go himself, or send a strong escort to accompany them until they reached the outposts of the Matabele. To this proposal the Tunas were strongly opposed, and entreated me most earnestly to accompany them to their own country; urging, that as I had shown them so much kindness, I must go and experience that of their king, who, they declared, would kill them if they suffered me to return before he had seen me. Mokhatla came trembling, and begged me to go, as he and his people would flee if I refused. pleaded my numerous engagements at the Kuruman; but argument was vain. At last, to their inexpressible joy, I consented to go as far as their first cattle outposts. Mokhatla had long wished to see the fearful Moselekatse, who had desolated the Bakone country, and the proximity of whose residence gave him just reason to tremble for the safety of his people; and it was only because they were not the rich owners of herds of cattle, that they had not already become the prey of this African Napoleon.

I

During three days of heavy rain, which detained us, Mokhatla, whose physiognomy and manœuvres evinced, that, while he had very little of what was noble about him, he was an adept at intrigue, and exhibited too much of the sycophant to command respect, resolved to make himself one of my retinue. The country through which we had to travel was quite of a different character from that we had passed. It was mountainous, and wooded to the summits. Evergreens adorned the valleys, in which numerous streams of excellent water flowed through many a winding course towards the Indian Ocean. During the first and second day's journey I was charmed exceedingly, and was often re

338

DANGER ATTENDING THEIR RETURN.

of the bed of the river, and the smith's forge filled them with admiration and astonishment, which they expressed not in the wild gestures generally made by the mere plebeian, but by the utmost gravity and profound veneration, as well as the most respectful demeanour. "You are men, we are but children," said one; while the other observed, "Moselekatse must be taught all these things." When standing in the hall of our house, looking at the strange furniture of a civilized abode, the eye of one caught a small looking-glass, on which he gazed with admiration. Mrs. M. handed him one which was considerably larger; he looked intensely at his reflected countenance, and never having seen it before, supposed it was that of one of his attendants on the other side; he very abruptly put his hand behind it, telling him to be gone, but looking again at the same face, he cautiously turned it, and seeing nothing, he returned the glass with great gravity to Mrs. M., saying that he could not trust it.

Nothing appeared to strike them so forcibly as the public worship in our chapel. They saw men like themselves meet together with great decorum; mothers hushing their babes, or hastily retiring if they made any noise, and the elder children sitting perfectly silent. When the missionary ascended the pulpit, they listened to the hymn sung, and though from their ignorance of the Bechuana language they could not understand all that was said, they were convinced that something very serious was the subject of the address. The order and fervour which pervaded all parts of the service, bewildered their minds, which, from their infancy had been accustomed to observe every public meeting introduced and characterized by the hoarse war-song and displays of chivalry. They were inquisitive about every thing, and were surprised to find that the hymns we sung were not war songs, expressive of the wild reveries which the associations of music brought to their minds. We embraced every opportunity of telling them the simple truths of the Gospel, and laboured to impress on their minds the blessings of peace.

These men had intended to visit the white man's country, the colony, but this was found inconvenient, and. involved considerable difficulty as to how they were to be returned in safety. Accordingly, a Hottentot, who had accompanied the traders as a wagon-driver, was appointed by them to reconduct our visitors from our station to their own land. To this arrangement the latter made some objections, and it was well, for the character of the man was such as to make him a fit tool for so cruel a monarch as Moselekatse

DANGER ATTENDING THEIR RETURN.

339

was reported to be. While this subject was under consideration, 'Umbate and his companion entered my house, with dejected looks, and requested a private interview; he informed me that reports had reached his ear, that the Bechuana tribes, through which they had to pass on the road homeward, were meditating their destruction. Of this we had had our suspicions, and only wished these noble visitors. had not been brought to a missionary station, for we could not pretend to defend them by a superior force. Mr. Hamilton, Mrs. M., and I met again and again to deliberate on the subject, but we were at our wit's end. We took into consideration the warlike character, and almost overwhelming power of the Mantabele, who had already destroyed. many powerful tribes, and saturated the Bakone hills and plains with blood, following up the destruction commenced by the Mantatees. We could not help almost trembling at the possible consequences of the ambassadors of such a power being butchered on the road. Having maturely considered the subject, and implored Divine direction, it was resolved that I should take charge of them, as far as the Bahurutsi country, from which they could proceed without danger to their own land and people. The strangers most gratefully accepted of this proposal, their eyes glistening with delight. A wagon was hired, in addition to my own, for their conveyance. Though these men were, strictly speaking, savages, we were convinced that they were persons of influence and authority under their own sovereign, by the simple dignity of their deportment, and their own entire silence on the subject. The delightful results of the Gospel of love and good-will to all men, were strikingly exhibited on our departure. The believers, and many others on the station, brought little presents to offer to the strangers, as well as some for their master, Moselekatse, whose name, in their natural state, they would have pronounced only with anathemas. Having obtained a sufficient number of volunteers to accompany me, for there were some who thought the journey would be a disastrous one, we left the Kuruman on the 9th of November.

The two ambassadors were received at old Lithako with great kindness by the people of Mahura, who at that period strongly recommended the pacific precepts of the Gospel introduced by the missionaries, although he himself has not yet shown that he has received that Gospel into his heart, which has scattered so many blessings in his path. Mahura's speech had a good effect on their minds, in so far as it con